Sunday, December 16, 2007

Eid Mubarak!

Assalamu Aleikum!

Eid Mubarak to all!

It has been declared that Eid will be on Wednesday 19th December (at least here in the UAE). I'll be flying back to the UK and have been checking out the weather reports. It looks like it's freezing back there. I wonder how it'll feel coming from short sleeves and hot, sunny weather back to winter in Britain.

One of my colleagues at work is a Muslim from just outside London. His mosque has decided to celebrate Eid on Thursday. He explained it to me - the mosque celebrate Eid according to their home country. Now, is this Pakistan or the UK? But irrespective of whether it is Pakistan or the UK how can a mosque not follow what happens in Makka? In the old days before phones, internet, TV etc I can understand that a remote village would have to calculate when Eid was themselves. However, we are in the 21st century!

Masalamah
Yahya

My first time in Dubai


Assalamu Aleikum!


Since moving to the UAE I haven't visited Dubai. Lots of brothers warned me of how much they hated it when they visited. To be honest everything they have in Dubai I can get in Abu Dhabi and it's closer! So it was going to take a special event to get me into Dubai. That event came yesterday with the final day of the Dubai Film Festival. The festival had a real international feel with movies from Africa, the Middle East and Asia. Not the usual American fare. So myself and a friend signed up for 3 movies over the course of a day including one from Lebanon about last year's war.


The drive up was long and tiring. As we drove towards Dubai I caught sight of the city. The only way I could describe it was like something out of the Wizard of Oz. These massive skyscrapers rising out of the flat sand. Actually on second thoughts it was like a cross between the Wizard of Oz and Bladerunner. Is this what cities will look like in future? Land is plentiful and yet the architects were designing buildings as high as the next. Each building was about twice as high as the ones in Abu Dhabi.


In the malls there was a marked difference with Abu Dhabi. The traditional clothes worn in Abu Dhabi almost didn't exist here. In fact you would never know you were in the Middle East. After a day in Dubai I'm quite glad I live in the desert.


Masalamah

Yahya

Friday, December 14, 2007

He's behind you!

Assalamu Aleikum!

Well, I'm back safe and sound from the panto.

I mentioned in my previous posting that I was off to see a panto at the British Club. Actually the name of the place is The Club. I guess they dropped the British bit off somewhere along the line. But once you get inside it's as British as roast beef. There is a pub which looks like any pub back in the UK complete with Irish folk singers. They serve a mean beef pie and chips. Although the chips were the stringy kind rather than good old fat chips. Other than this the food was excellent.

The panto was a sell out and had loads of laughs. There was a lot of innuendo and I mean a lot. My Arab friends missed a lot of this and I had to explain. They were also a bit confused with the men playing women and the women playing men. But I explained that this was a British pastime - cross-dressing! All in all we all had a thoroughly fun evening out.

Tomorrow it's the Dubai Film Festival and I'm down to watch 3 films in a row. The films look great. They've got lots of Arab films and a few western ones. They're the sort of films you never hear about especially in Blockbusters.

Masalamah
Yahya

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Would you Adam and Eve it?

Assalamu Aleikum!

I'm recovered from the excitement of the football match and now look forward to my trip into the city. A few of us from the desert have been invited to the big city to watch a pantomime. It's being put on by the British Club and we have a few friends on the stage. I do enjoy a good panto and thought I might miss out being out of the UK. I haven't been to the British Club yet so I don't know what to expect. I have visions of that scene in Lawrence of Arabia where Lawrence appears out of the desert dressed as a Bedouin much to the disgust of the gentlemen officers in the club.

It's almost the end of this semester and things have slowed down. To help pass the time I've borrowed a few books from my American colleague. They're written by Spencer Wells and concern the Genographic Project. He uses the study of DNA to investigate where we all came from. It's a fascinating read. One of the things he says is that we all originate from Africa from ancestors he calls Adam and Eve. He talks about mtDNA which is passed down through the maternal line. Men and women inherit it from their mothers. Wells goes on to explain that there is a group of mtDNA called haplogroup J. Bedouins in Arabia have a high frequency of haplogroup J as do the peoples of northern Europe especially Britain and northern Germany. It's lower in southern Europe.

So we're all cousins after all!

Masalamah
Yahya

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

There's some people on the pitch

Assalamu Aleikum!

"There's some people on the pitch. They think it's all over. It is now!"

I went to our local professional football team's match last night. We were second to bottom of the league at start of play with only one victory all season. The tension was obvious as we moved towards the stadium. Bus loads of kids had arrived in the yellow buses they travel to school in. The drummers/cheer leaders had settled themselves into the stands next to the glass enclosure that held the shaykhs. Worried looking men were dragging on cigarettes. The player's wife (singular!) fashionably dressed with a headscarf strategically placed over her head took her place in the posh seats.

We had our usual frisk at the gates for any weapons. The police were taking no chances! A little boy of about 3 was frisked as I was. Fortunately no offensive weapons were discovered. Then we took our seats and settled down to a game of 2 halves. By the end of the first half our team was 3-0 up and there the excitement ended. The second half produced no shots on goal but a lot of players falling down injured only to jump up a minute later after the opposition had sportingly kicked the ball out of play.

The final whistle blew and our team jumped into each other's arms. The new Egyptian coach, looking like Gareth Southgate in a smart suit, ran over and congratulated his players on only their second win of the season. As I was watching this the person next to me spotted something else going.
"Look over there! This win means a lot to them."
I followed the direction he was pointing and saw hordes of kids invading the pitch. But rather than the parkas the Hereford fans wore when their team beat Newcastle in the early 70s these kids were all wearing the kandoora (long white shirt). The glee in their faces was palpable. And yet within those gleeful expressions was a look of steely determination. As if they had a greater motive than just celebrating their team's win.

Then it dawned on me. "The balls!"
Too late the footballers realised that they had left the balls that they had been warming up with on the side of the pitch. Each boy made a grab for a ball. Some stuffed them under their kandooras and dashed out of the ground looking like pregnant 10 year olds. Others launched them over the fence to waiting compatriots. By the end of 2 minutes the ground was cleared of footballs.

Free to watch and you get a football to take home with you. I wonder if it'll catch on in the UK?

Masalamah
Yahya

Sunday, December 9, 2007

My little mosque

Assalamu Aleikum!

I live in an apartment next to the local football ground. It never ceases to amaze me that a place as small as my little town has a professional team that plays in the top division of the UAE league. Currently we are second to bottom with just one win this season. But inshallah that will all change as the crowd of about 100 supporters get behind the team.

I mention the team and football ground because this is where I go to pray. Within the grounds is a small mosque. It reminds me of the mosque at Reading University in that it is a portakabin, terrapin or whatever the term is for a fairly basic temporary structure. I guess it is there for the footballers but many local men use it. To get there I walk past all the building work (in UAE there is always building going on!) and over a clump of sand. I pass the gym where all the young lads who want to be Arnie hang out. Then I come by the social club and arrive at the mosque. If there is no football then there are probably about 5 worshippers but if football is on then the whole team is there in their best tracksuits.

The imam is youngish. I would guess in his thirties and often has his son with him. When I arrive I'm greeted with a smile. The imam calls the adhaan himself and leads the prayer. His recitation is carried over loudspeakers so if you're late you know how far through he is.

Many of the worshippers speak fluent English and they seem genuinely pleased to see someone like myself going to the mosque. Before I came to the UAE I thought I would be praying in large, stately mosques with minarets. But in saying that my little mosque is just right because of the warm welcome I receive. As many people say it's not what's on the outside but what's on the inside that matters!

Masalamah
Yahya

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Spot the difference


Assalamu Aleikum!


The Hajj season is fast approaching and so to help me understand the pilgrimage I'm reading two books written by men who went on Hajj. One is a modern account and the other is a medieval account. There is quite a distinct difference in approach by both men. I thought I would quote from each book and see what you think.


"At dawn on Monday, we sailed from this place, by the favour of Allah Most High, under a light breeze - Allah is the disposer of all things. There is no Lord but He."


"I share with them a love for the great achievements of Muslim civilization and culture, but I can only perform the rites knowing that I act simply for pure pleasure and the desire to understand - with respect, of course, for the pilgrims and their beliefs, but unable to adopt the truths of absolute knowledge they profess."


Masalamah

Yahya

Friday, December 7, 2007

You know Eid is near when...

Assalamu Aleikum!

You know Eid is near when you start seeing goats tethered on the front lawns of the houses.

It's Jummah here in the Empty Quarter and as I made my way to prayers I noticed that many houses had new visitors. There were goats tied to trees eating out of cardboard boxes. They looked calm and serene; oblivious to their fate in a matter of weeks.

The translator at our school is going to perform the sacrifice himself. He's never done it before but he says he has a few brothers who will advise him. Over here in the UAE there are fewer rules with things Islamic (other than Islamic rules of course). I just imagine the bureaucracy involved back in the UK. All because of health and safety.

It puts me in mind of my daughter's aqiqa a few years ago in Wales at one of the New Muslim Project camps. A very good friend from London had bought a farm in rural Wales and was running it despite having no experience in farming. My daughter's aqiqa was performed by his son. I must say how professional he was. And also how well the family ran the farm. The meat was made into a delicious meal for all the guests at the camp. One sister even made our daughter a cake. Truly unforgettable. But despite all this it will be a very long time before I would wield the knife.

Masalamah
Yahya

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Tents and houses

Assalamu Aleikum!

I drove over to visit an imam with one of the Muslim brothers I work with. The imam is from Mauritania and his mosque is on the outskirts of the town. He was friendly and interested in meeting a Muslim from the UK. Unfortunately our conversation was limited as he spoke no English and I speak very little Arabic. He was from Africa but he didn't look African. He looked either Arab or Indian. I wondered about the Arab influence in that part of Africa.

When driving through the town you see lots of big tents outside the houses. This was especially so in the outskirts. The Bedouin have only been in permanent dwellings for a couple of generations and their ties to the nomadic lifestyle are still strong. It reminds me a bit of Gadaffi's tent in Libya. It also reminds me of something I read a long time ago about the Australian govt building houses for the Aborigines and the complaint from the whites that they didn't look after their homes. That they slept outside! The Aborigines were still tied to the land and their nomadic existence.

An excellent book about nomadic lifestyle/Australia is Songlines by Bruce Chatwin. In fact I would rate it as one of my all time favourite books. It has little nuggets like the idea that babies cry when they're not being rocked because in a nomadic culture the baby will always be carried on the mother's back and hence be rocked as she walks. If there is no rocking going on then the adult is not around for protection.

I guess things like the hajj are nomadic experiences. It has always been my dream to do the hajj 'properly' i.e. overland. It always seems a bit of a cheat flying. One minute you're in London and a few hours later you're in Mecca. In the old days doing the hajj took years and was a real achievement when completed. It would be marvellous to recapture some of that in this modern age. Maybe stop over in Bosnia, Istanbul, Damascus etc for weeks at a time.

Getting back to the local Bedouins they will often go to the desert. This includes the kids and it is often a complaint from the teachers here that kids will be absent from school for weeks. They're usually looking after their family's camels. They range over the Empty Quarter into Saudi Arabia and Oman. With it being desert there are no real borders or at least none that you could see. In this day and age with passports and visas it is refreshing to hear of people travelling without these boundaries.

Masalamah
Yahya

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Holidays are over

Assalamu Aleikum!

I'm back at work. The 2 day holiday is over and I've returned to a strangely quiet school. Exam season is upon us and the pupils are only coming in for their exams and then going home again. It means that the teachers are all busy with administering the exams, marking the exams or sorting papers. I guess it gives us all the chance to prepare for semester 2 when a lot of hard work will have to happen.

One of the great things about UAE is that with English being so widely spoken there are lots of bookshops selling English books, magazines etc. If you then add to the fact that it's a Muslim country you get loads of books about Islam in English. Suits me fine! I picked up a book translated from the Arabic into English by Ibn Jubayr. I had never heard of him but it appears he was a bit of an Ibn Battuta i.e. traveller. His account tells of his travel on Hajj in 1183 and visiting Egypt, Sicily, Baghdad etc. I'm looking forward to enjoying his accounts of Muslims of that era. One of the things that struck me when reading Ibn Battuta a few years ago was how each Muslim community had kept to the fundamentals of iman but had also developed a separate culture influenced by local surroundings.

The sun is still shining
Masalamah
Yahya

Monday, December 3, 2007

What's in a name? Part 2

Assalamu Aleikum!

I might have mentioned before that I finally moved into my apartment after too long in hotels. In order to make my stay here a little bit more comfortable I've signed up for internet access (fastest they've got) and satellite TV (lots of live football games featuring Chelsea). Each of these comforts require forms, forms, forms.

Signing up for the internet I sit at a desk in the local internet provider's office. Opposite me is a friendly and helpful Arab. He apologises at first for not being used to dealing with British/Americans (we're always lumped together).
"We usually only see Arabs or Indians here."
"No problem. I want an internet account; fastest you've got."
"Ok. Let's see. Your name is....." He looks at a form from my employer. Sadly it's the same form that translated my name into Arabic and back into English ending up as Joey.
"Yahya Joey."
I look a bit perplexed. "The first name is correct."
"Ah, Yahya. That's a Muslim name isn't it?"
"Yes, that's right. I'm Muslim."
"So, your second name is Joey. But that's not Muslim."
I go into the account of my conversion to Islam (edited highlights only) and he looks a lot brighter.
"But just one thing. Joey is not a Muslim name; in fact it's not my name. My name is Guy."
"It says Joey here."
"I know but it's wrong. It should say Guy."
A light appears to go on above his head. "So, what's Joey? Is it a nickname?"
"NO! My name is Guy. It was a translation error." I attempt to explain the English to Arabic to English phenonemon. At the end he says," Joey, Joey. He's in that American comedy Friends. You can get that if you sign up for satellite TV."
I thank him for his help and say that my next task is to sign up for satellite TV where I'm sure to see Joey.

Masalamah
Yahya

Sunday, December 2, 2007

What's in a name?


Assalamu Aleikum!


I've got 3 names or at least I have for the last 17 years. I have my Muslim name of Yahya that I adopted on my conversion, my name of Guy given by my parents and my family name. I had always moved effortlessly between them depending on who I was talking to. At work and to most non-muslims I was Guy; to Muslims I was Yahya and to some people who knew me in both worlds I was both Guy and Yahya.


When you move to the UAE there are lots of forms to fill in and officials to meet (often on more than one occasion). At these meetings my name of Yahya (it's on my passport) is met by confusion. The pale skin and dark hair lead some to think I'm Lebanese until they encounter my poor Arabic. Almost all are even more confused when I explain I'm from Britain (I never explain Wales as it only adds to the confusion!). "But you don't speak Arabic." I patiently explain that there are many Muslims in the UK who are not fluent in Arabic and that I am not some weird aberration from Cardiff. At this they usually scratch their heads as if to say 'Well, I never!'


One notable exception to all this was while in the bank in my little town in the desert. I was with 2 non-muslim colleagues asking about bank cards and the like. The woman serving us was dressed in the full abaya and was helpfully answering all our queries. While looking through our papers she noticed the name Yahya. The confused look started to appear and she said," Yahya, that's a Muslim name."

"Yes, that's right. I'm Muslim."

"Oh really. Well, congratulations!"


Any forms we have in English are always translated into Arabic and there's a thriving industry of translators. While awaiting processing of my application for a UAE driving licence I took a look at a form in Arabic which had been translated back into English. The form included my name and had obviously caused a lot of head scratching by the translator to judge from the scribbling out. My name of Guy had been translated into Arabic but there was no 'G' so the original translator had opted for jeem. Being put back into English made my name Joy. That was the translator's first choice but unfortunately Joy is a female name and I am most definitely male. So he opted for Joey. The only Joey I could think of was the character in Friends. So here I am with another new name. How am I going to break the news to my parents?


Masalamah

Yahya Joey

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Happy Birthday!


Assalamu Aleikum!


I missed a day writing this blog as I was out celebrating. 36 today! Not me, the UAE. The UAE was created 36 years ago and it's currently the school holidays for 2 days at least. Yesterday I ventured into the big city for the first time in a long while. As it was a celebration the local lads went a bit mental and there were cars painted in the national colours, boys sitting on the roofs of speeding cars, confetti being thrown at everyone and me sitting in the longest traffic jam ever trying to get to the mall. The last time I experienced anything like this was when Wales won the 6 Nations and all of Cardiff ground to a halt. In the end I gave up and headed off for the desert at about 11pm. I think I will try again on Monday, inshallah.


Back in the desert the celebrations are altogether more civilised. So on Thursday our little town had a procession of people riding camels and horses, and lots of school kids. Ours had been given the day off so the headteacher had to go around persuading a few to join the procession. But the Scouts were there in full regalia with the scout leader (one of our teachers) marching in front. A Bedouin village was set up for the day with traditional singing and dancing, food (my favourite) and as much coffee as you could drink. Some of the Bedouin boys brought their falcons and explaining the training regime for them. Apparently they only fly in the winter as the summer is too hot for them (interesting fact No 1). The Bedouin women gave me some food that was delicious - a bit like pancakes. At this point the dancers started up and they reminded me of morris dancers - all in white, carrying sticks and skipping/walking around to a set pattern. They danced to songs sung by a line of men. I didn't see it but my guide, the PE teacher, told me that when the women dance they swing their long hair around. He said it's an amazing sight. He's from Jordan and said he didn't really meet Bedouin up there as most people were city-dwellers.


All of the above was for the local Bedouin peoples. A celebration of their culture. There was not one tourist in sight. It's a real privilege to join in with the celebrations.


At the end of the event I went to a building where there was some more Bedouin music going on. As I get to the steps I noticed about 12 policemen spread out in front. I turned to the PE teacher and asked," Are they expecting trouble?"

"That's for the children. Only adults are allowed inside."

I looked at the police with their truncheons at the ready and moved inside. I enjoyed the singing inside and when we all stood for the national anthem the police must have decided to let some kids in. It was just after that I heard a scuffle behind me and saw a young lad bearing a remarkable resemblance to my over-the-wall escapee running across the tops of the chairs with a policeman in hot pursuit. I sighed to myself and thought about my 2 days off and fresh challenges when I return.


Masalamah

Yahya